D'Oliveiras, Sercial other_regions_italy weight and power and overall

weight and power and overall this is potentially terrific

The Rionda hallmarks - specifically

This possesses the most complex nose in the range with its plethora of spice

I like this for its generosity as well as for the sheer depth of material and while there is enough mid-palate fat to allow the ’04 Bâtard to be approachable now

so I looked for it

D'Oliveiras, Sercial other_regions_italy weight and power and overallMid amber brown all three Sercial and Terrantez dOliveiras wines are notably deeper colour than four other Madeiras tasted at the same time. A slightly reticent nose, with cola nuts, chocolate, Christmas spices, cooked orange and a touch of polished wood. Noticeable sweetness on the palate entry, giving way to lively acidity and a touch of phenolic chew. Long, toasty, nutty finish. Makes up in length what it perhaps gives away in finesse. (TJ)